The following photos are ones that I took either while doing the conversion or after the fact to help document what was done. As you can see by the photos, your book was used as a guide and I did several things that are a little different in order to achieve the same result. The main reason for most of the changes is because I like to "use what I've got" and if I can save a couple $$$ that way, I'm all for it! :-) I've said it before and I'll say it again, YOUR BOOK IS FANTASTIC!! I really appreciate the monumental effort and skilled engineering that went into this conversion. It's truly a working piece of art!! Please feel free to use any, all or none of the info/comments & photos below in any future up-dates to your book, If you do use anything, I would appreciate being added to your acknowledgement section. Thanks.
I turned the OD of the hub down rather than the ID of the pulley. This enabled me to keep the keyway in tact on the pulley. This is VERY important when drilling the holes in the correct locations so that the degree markings can still be used for timing just like a T-1 motor, once the motor is finished. The 2nd & 3rd photos show the relationship between the keyways on the crank, the position of the TDC markings on the pulley and the case half. This info is not covered in your book since you cover using a stock pulley with notches like the factory used. The way it's pictured in your book is fine if using a stock pulley, but if you were to drill a degreed pulley as pictured in your book, the timing marks would be off by about 45 degrees. The keyways on the T-1 & T-4 crankshafts are in the same locations relative to TDC on #1 piston. All one needs to do is to line up the keyways so that the hub keyway is perfectly centered in the pulley keyway and back drill the alignment pin hole. Then install the alignment pin to hold everything in place and finish drilling the rest of the bolt holes. Actually if you did all pulleys this way, you wouldn't need to re-mark and re-notch them. Just an idea. . .
I turned my pulley flush with the back side. This makes the aluminum pulley sit flush on the hub, but too close to the case bosses. I shimmed this area back out using original spacers. This worked out really nice because it also enabled me to tailor the pulley position getting it as far back as possible (this helps later with the cylinder cooling and fan shroud positioning later).
Just see: http://www.aircooledtech.com/type4_upright_conversion/pulley_mod/
This is basically just like in your book. I had to make mine a little longer (on the fwd end) since my shroud sits exactly between the cylinder banks. So my measurements are a little off but basically identical. The funky looking oil filler tube is so that the oil filler can get around my center plenum of my CIS fuel injection system (I decided to go CIS AFTER I had the stand made). If you would rather have pics without that on there, let me know and I can shoot some more.
Here's a few photos I do have of the cylinder tin going together. The tin in the 3rd and later pics has been Plastic Media blasted ONLY; that's why it's got no paint but still got some corrosion on it. I left about 1/4" overlap and TIG welded the ends while it was mounted to the motor. Only after the vertical tin was cut out, fitted and welded into place, did I cut away the centers of the cylinder tin so that the air could pass to the cylinders and heads. To me, this was just the logical progression of the cylinder tin, but you would not believe how many folks I've talked to thought you needed to first cut the hole for the air, THEN try and mate the vertical tin in there (thus screwing up their cylinder tin). Again, I did this "Nate's way" rather than try and graft in T-1 tin, and made my vertical tin using the tape template method. Since the link I had here seems to be dead, here's the post I made about the making of the vertical tin as described on the STF:
Posted: Sun Jan 19, 2003 6:02 pm Post subject: Need Cali conversion pics
"One of the
things that helped me get everything to fit perfectly was to tack everything in
place on the assembled engine. If you try and just mark weld lines on the pieces
and match up the lines on the welding bench it WILL be off and the fit will be
The hardest part of the tin was making the vertical pieces that connect the shroud to the cylinder tin. Unfortunately I was a dork and didn't take any pics of this (sorry). Since there's a 101 ways to skin a cat, here's Nate's way #102:
What I did was use some 3" wide tape and laid the center top edge on the side of the shroud where the mounting screws go in. I positioned it so that the it was just as high as I would want the tin to be. I then wrapped the tape around to either side at 90 degree angles. Since the front and back of the shroud curve downward, the tape ends up mostly on the shroud, but that's O.K. Now trace with a pencil the upper edge of where the shroud would sit in the T-1 tin (the bottom edge of the bead-rolled curving line). You now have the upper edge of the vertical tin traced onto the tape.
Without removing the tape, then you will need to carefully lower the shroud (with the help of a buddy) onto the engine tin. Use a razor blade to carefully trim away the excess around the bottom until it is sitting on the alt. stand. It's critical to ensure the pulleys are all aligned as required. If everything fits to your satisfaction, you have successfully transferred the bottom edge of the vertical tin on to the tape. Mark it "L" or "R" since they will likely each have a unique fit.
Once you are at this point, you can remove the tape and lay it on about a 20-25" piece of mild steel. It will look kind of like a "bird in flight soaring" with it's wing arched to either side. I traced this onto my steel and ADDED 1/8" to both the upper and lower edges as a safety measure. Grab the tin snips and get to cuttin'!!
Be sure to bend the front and back pieces in the same place as the tape was bent around the shroud. That should get you close enough to the correct shape that you can use either a file or grinder to make them fit perfectly. I wouldn't worry about the fit of the UPPER edge of the vertical tin until it's all welded into place on the cylinder tins; you can always make them shorter, but it SUCKS to have to add metal that you inadvertently cut away just moments before.
You MUST tack the vertical tins on with the shroud bolted into place with pulleys aligned (yes, break out the belt and ensure it's right) and square (not tilted to one side or the other. DO NOT eyeball it. If you do, it WILL be off and won't fit later. Break out the ruler and measure from the bottom, outer edge of the shroud to the top of the intake ports on the heads. Tighten everything in place, use some welding clamps to hold the tin against the shroud and tack it good. Then finish weld it.
Now you can cut away the centers so that the air passes to the cylinders and heads. I left about a 3/4" strip pf the cylinder tins on the inner edge (where they overlap the case. This added a lot of strength and kept the tin from flexing like T-1 tin does.
Finally, bolt everything back on and trace with a Sharpie where the top edge needs to be and then grind down to your marks. checking with the shroud periodically so as not to go too far too quickly.
VIOLA!! Your new upper cylinder tin ala Cali!!
I hope my jabbering hasn't confused anyone. I'm really pissed at myself that I didn't take pics of the vertical tin fab."
It should be noted that the first 3 photos (tin painted black) are of late FI bus tin which after I cut it, U decided NOT to use it because of the shape of the top. This tin dips down in the center (to make room for the EFI plenum). After studying it, I decided to use regular carbureted bus tin which has better flow shape from front to back. I don't really know if it would make any real difference in the way the engine was cooled, but I didn't want to take any risks of making things harder for the fan.
Note on the 10th photo, the offset of the cylinder banks between 1/2 & 3/4. This was achieved by using the two pulley methods for the crank pulley and the alt. pulley. This offset is identical to to the offset in a stock T-1.
Lower Cylinder Tin
Just see: http://www.aircooledtech.com/type4_upright_conversion/lower_cylinder_tin/
This was stretched as per your book about 1". I didn't have a spare DH cooler mount so I just made one from scrap. I had to add 2 mount bolts to the rear of the mount so that it could be anchored in place to the shroud.
This was made from a 1" scrap of Aluminum and a length of #4 aluminum tubing welded in place.
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Revised: April 18, 2004 .